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Luxembourg in 3 days, upgraded

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Wine terraces above the Moselle river in eastern Luxembourg

Wine terraces above the Moselle river in eastern Luxembourg

Sleep: Le Place d’Armes or Hotel Le Royal

Hotel Le Place d’Armes is a Relais & Châteaux townhouse on the main square, with rooms from $380 and a Michelin-starred restaurant, La Cristallerie, downstairs. Alternative: Hotel Le Royal on Boulevard Royal ($340) with a full spa. For something quieter, Hotel Parc Beaux-Arts ($260) has just 11 suites in a converted 18th-century mansion 2 minutes from the palace.

Day 1: Old town at Michelin pace

Skip the queues at the Bock Casemates with a private guide from Luxembourg City Tourist Office ($180 for 2 hours). Lunch at Um Plateau in Clausen — the $65 3-course menu with a glass of Domaine Sunnen-Hoffmann Auxerrois. Afternoon at Villa Vauban and MNHA. Dinner at Ma Langue Sourit in Oetrange (12 min taxi), 1 Michelin star, tasting menu $180 with the wine pairing at $110.

Day 2: Private Moselle vineyard day

Book a private tasting at Domaine Alice Hartmann in Wormeldange — their Riesling from the Koeppchen vineyard is Luxembourg's benchmark. A 2-hour tasting with cellar tour runs $85 a head. Lunch at Ma Langue Sourit's sister, or the Michelin-starred Mosconi in the Grund on the way back ($150 menu). Book helicopter transfer via Luxaviation from Findel airport for river-valley aerials — around $650 for 20 minutes.

Day 3: Vianden and the Ardennes

Drive or taxi ($120 each way) to Vianden Castle. Skip the standard ticket and book the Grand Ducal Apartments private tour ($45) which includes rooms not on the general route. Lunch at Auberge Aal Veinen for wild boar. Return via Bourscheid Castle and Château de Berg. Final dinner at Clairefontaine near the palace — $140 menu, cellar of about 900 references, and one of only 2 dining rooms in the country with a Michelin star and a working fireplace.

Frequently asked questions

Which is the best 5-star hotel in Luxembourg City?

Hotel Le Place d’Armes for location and the on-site Michelin restaurant. Hotel Le Royal for the spa. Both charge $340-450 in high season. Le Place d’Armes has better breakfast.

How many Michelin stars are in Luxembourg?

As of the latest guide, around 9 starred restaurants nationwide including Clairefontaine, La Cristallerie, Mosconi, Ma Langue Sourit, Fani in Roeser and Léa Linster's flagship in Frisange.

Is a car worth it for the upgraded trip?

A hired car with driver ($400 a day via Voyages Emile Weber) beats renting. Parking in the old town is $4-6 an hour and the streets are steep and one-way. Trains are free but tastings run late.

Best wine estate for a private visit?

Domaine Alice Hartmann and Domaine Sunnen-Hoffmann both take private bookings. Bernard-Massard in Grevenmacher is bigger and more polished but less intimate.

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