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Day trip to Clervaux from Luxembourg

5 min read

Clervaux Castle in a wooded Ardennes valley

Clervaux Castle in a wooded Ardennes valley

Getting there

CFL train from Luxembourg Central direct to Clervaux, 1 hour, free. Trains run hourly. The station is in the valley bottom — a 10-minute uphill walk to the castle, or a shuttle in summer. Bring good shoes.

The Family of Man

Edward Steichen was born in Bivange, near Luxembourg City, and directed photography at MoMA. His 1955 exhibition The Family of Man — 503 photos from 68 countries on the shared human condition — has been permanently installed in Clervaux Castle since 1994. Entry is $8. Allow 90 minutes. The exhibition is quiet, moving and pointedly free of digital screens. Unesco added it to the Memory of the World register in 2003.

The town

Beyond the castle, Clervaux has the Benedictine Abbey of St Maurice on the hillside opposite — free to visit, with Gregorian vespers at 5.30pm on weekdays. The Battle of the Bulge Museum inside the castle ($5) covers the December 1944 fighting that leveled parts of the town. Lunch at Restaurant Le Claravallis on Grand-Rue — the $22 3-course menu is honest Ardennes cooking with local trout.

Nearby detour

If you’re driving, add Esch-sur-Sûre, 25 minutes south, with its ruined castle on a river bend. Or continue north to Troisvierges, the last stop before Belgium, for the Sunday market.

Frequently asked questions

Is Clervaux worth the trip just for the photo exhibition?

Yes if you care about photography or 20th-century culture. The Family of Man is one of the most important exhibitions ever staged. The Ardennes scenery is a bonus.

How long do I need in Clervaux?

Half a day is enough. Train in at 10am, exhibition, lunch, abbey, train back by 5pm. A full day lets you add a walk along the marked trails around town.

Is the castle wheelchair accessible?

Partially. The Family of Man rooms are on 1 level and accessible via lift. The Battle of the Bulge section has some stairs.

Any good hotels if I want to stay overnight?

Hotel International in the town centre ($120) is the reliable choice. Hotel Le Claravallis ($95) is cheaper and has a decent restaurant.

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