FAR NORTH

Clervaux

Clervaux castle above the town in the Ardennes valley

Clervaux is in the deep north Ardennes, close to the Belgian border, about an hour by train from the capital. The town nestles in a tight bend of the Clerve river with a white 12th-century castle above it, and the castle houses The Family of Man — Edward Steichen's 1955 photography exhibition of 503 images from 68 countries, permanently installed here since 1994 and inscribed on UNESCO's Memory of the World register. It's one of the most significant single photography exhibitions ever assembled, and Clervaux is where you can see it.

The town itself is small and quiet — a few restaurants, a Benedictine abbey up the hill on the Loretta plateau, some Belle Époque villas and a train station. Winter can be cold and half the shops close; summer sees more visitors but never crowded. Suits photography enthusiasts, Ardennes hikers, and anyone who wants the deepest quiet in Luxembourg. Skip if you’re not interested in either photography or hiking — there's honestly not much else.

Where to stay

Hotels and guesthouses around the center and near the station, USD 80-140. Position near the station gives you easy return trains; near the castle gives you the atmospheric center. The Benedictine abbey does not accept overnight guests in the traditional sense but has occasional retreat programs. Winter rates are the lowest in the country in some places.

Getting there

Trains from Luxembourg Gare via Ettelbruck run every 30-60 minutes, about 60 minutes total, free. Onward trains continue to Troisvierges and into Belgium. From Findel airport, tram T1 to Gare then train, about 85 minutes total. Within Clervaux everything is walkable but the castle climb is genuinely steep with luggage.

Frequently asked questions

Is Clervaux worth the journey just for The Family of Man?

For serious photography enthusiasts, absolutely — it's a landmark exhibition permanently installed in a beautiful setting. Casual visitors will find the town small; combine with a hike or with Vianden on a longer Ardennes trip to make it worthwhile.

How cold does Clervaux get in winter?

Cold. It's the far north and higher altitude — expect below-freezing overnight temperatures November-March and occasional snow. Bring proper clothing; the castle climb ices over. Trains run reliably in almost all conditions.