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Luxembourg in December: markets and cold

5 min read

Gluehwein stalls at the Place d’Armes Christmas market.

Gluehwein stalls at the Place d’Armes Christmas market.

Peak market season

The first three weeks of December are the year's second-highest hotel demand after National Day. Weekends 5-6, 12-13 and 19-20 December fill up two months ahead — Ville Haute boutique rooms hit 240-$280, and even Gare chains push 160. Midweek is 30-40 percent cheaper. The markets themselves run daily 11:00-21:00 (22:00 Fridays and Saturdays). Beyond the three main squares, smaller markets appear at Place de Paris in the Gare, on the Kinnekswiss lawn, and in Grund. Winterlights installations project onto ramparts and church facades. St Nicholas Day on 6 December is a family event with parades in most towns.

The dead week

From 24 December afternoon through 1 January, the city empties. Locals travel or stay home. The markets close on 24 December (the Ferris wheel and rink usually run to 4 January). Restaurants split into two camps: hotel dining rooms and touristy Grund places stay open, most independents shut for 10 days. Rates drop sharply between 26 and 30 December — Kirchberg 4-stars fall to 130, Ville Haute boutiques to 150. New Year's Eve then spikes again with fireworks over the Pétrusse. Weather across December runs 2-6 degrees, rain more than snow, and occasional freezing fog that hangs in the valley.

Frequently asked questions

Which Christmas market is best?

Place de la Constitution has the Ferris wheel and the best photograph with the viaduct behind. Place d’Armes has the biggest food selection and live music most evenings. Place Guillaume II is smaller and calmer, with more craft stalls. Visit all three — they are five minutes apart.

Are shops open on 26 December?

26 December (Stephanstag) is a public holiday and almost everything closes — shops, banks, most restaurants. Museums and the Christmas Ferris wheel stay open. Plan it as a walking-and-eating day, not a shopping day.

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Real prices for the places this piece names.

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